No, they do not overcharge you. It’s the currency.
About Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan lies at the heart of the ancient Silk Road, once linking China and Europe through trade, ideas, and culture. Cities like Samarkand and Bukhara became legendary centers of science, art, and religion, flourishing under rulers such as Tamerlane (Timur) in the 14th century. For centuries, empires rose and fell here: Persians, Arabs, Mongols, and Turks all left their mark in mosques, madrassas, and caravanserais. The 19th century brought Russian conquest, followed by incorporation into the Soviet Union. Since independence in 1991, Uzbekistan has embraced its Islamic and Silk Road heritage while still carrying traces of its Soviet past, something you feel clearly when walking the streets of Tashkent.
Arriving from Kyrgyzstan
After two weeks in the Kyrgyz mountains, sleeping in yurts and 20-30 km long daily treks, I arrived at Tashkent by plane with one clear priority: a proper bed, air conditioning, and a hot shower. The flight was uneventful, an old plane, flying from the new Issyk-Kul airport to Tashkent. Getting into the city is fairly easy, let the taxi drivers talk to you, smile, get through them and get one of the buses. Surprise: you can pay with Apple Pay, the system is tap-in, tap-out, without the tap-out part. Learnt that spending 1500 UZS, which was a fairly cheap lesson.
An hour later I checked into the Bentley Hotel Tashkent, a sleek, modern escape that felt like pure luxury after my rugged Kyrgyz adventure. A couple of days of chilling there, enjoying proper sheets and lazy mornings, was exactly the reset I needed before diving into Uzbekistan. I’d highly recommend to try their restaurant, never had a Dolma like that in my life.
Tashkent, lost between mosques and and post-soviet vibes
Tashkent is a city of contrasts. Wide post-Soviet avenues meet white marble mosques, and everyday life flows somewhere between tradition and modernity. I wandered through Old Tashkent, soaked in the bustle of Chor Bazaar, and often just let myself drift through the neighborhoods. The Hazrati Imam Complex, Tashkent’s greatest islamic site was closed due to renovation, so I opted to check Minor mosque. No regrets, the white-marble building is beautiful, totally worth to spend an hour there. But the real gem of Tashkent lies underground: the metro stations. Some of them are masterpieces of Soviet design, each with its own theme. My favorite was Kozmonavtlar, a space-inspired hall glowing in blue light, lined with portraits of astronauts and planets. Riding the metro here is as much sightseeing as transport.
Food-wise, Tashkent didn’t disappoint. I ate my fair share of somsa, a crispy pastries filled with meat and onions, straight from the bazaar ovens, alongside heavier plates of shashlik, skewers of smoky grilled meat that became my go-to comfort food. Plov won’t be my favourite tho.
Moving along the Silk Road
Uzbekistan has a shiny high-speed train, the Afrosiyob, connecting its main cities. But here’s the catch: you need to book in advance. I didn’t. Instead, I ended up on an older Soviet-style train for the 4.5-hour journey to Samarkand. The wagon had bunks instead of seats, no AC, and in the summer heat, it quickly turned into a survival chamber. It was long, sweaty, and chaotic, but also a reminder that not every travel story is perfect. Sometimes, the journey really tests your patience. Like a swiss girl I met in Tanzania told once: it’s the part of travelling.
Arriving in Samarkand made it worth it. Standing before the Registan, with its monumental madrassas glowing in turquoise and gold, was surreal. Every corner of the city carried centuries of history: mosques, mausoleums, tiled walls that looked like they belonged in a fairytale. I stayed at the cozy Salomat Guesthouse, where the family’s warmth and tea-fueled hospitality made Samarkand feel like home. Guys, this is not an affiliate link, I don’t have any business relationship with these guys, but I need to mention them: their hospitality, the friendly vibes made my stay memorable here.
Samarkand, the living history
Samarkand is often described as the crown jewel of the Silk Road, and it feels exactly like that. Yes, it’s touristy, with souvenir stalls, annoying groups, and plenty of selfie sticks around, but the city’s grandeur makes all of that fade into the background. Walking its streets feels like stepping through layers of time, from Timur’s empire to Soviet boulevards and today’s bustling cafés.
The Registan, Uzbekistan’s icon
The centerpiece of Samarkand is the Registan, a vast square framed by three monumental madrassas: Ulugh Beg, Sher-Dor, and Tilya-Kori. Their turquoise domes and intricate mosaics glow differently as the light changes through the day, but at sunset the whole square becomes golden and almost surreal. Once the heart of public life, markets, ceremonies, royal decrees, the Registan today still radiates the same aura of importance. It’s impossible not to stop and just stare. During the evening, around 20:30, the whole square turns into a magical light-show, one should not miss that.
Shah-i-Zinda, the avenue of the dead
A 30 min walk uphill from the Registan lies the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis, a narrow avenue lined with mausoleums covered in some of the most breathtaking tilework in Central Asia. The name means “The Living King”, referring to the legend that the Prophet Muhammad’s cousin, Qutham ibn Abbas, is buried here. Walking through its shaded passageways feels both intimate and monumental at once, like a kaleidoscope of turquoise, cobalt, and intricate calligraphy. Be sure to get there in the morning, when the crowds are exploring other parts of the city, in the afternoon it was a bit packed.
Bibi-Khanym mosque
Another highlight of the city is the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, commissioned in the 14th century by Timur after his conquest of India. At its completion, it was one of the largest mosques in the world, designed to showcase the power and glory of his empire. Time and earthquakes damaged it heavily, but what stands today with its colossal arches, massive domes, and fragments of its original decoration, still conveys the ambition behind it. Standing at its entrance, you really sense how Timur wanted Samarkand to rival any capital in the world.
Funny thing to mention, Timur was a proper micromanager, after his campaign in India, when he returned to the city, the almost finished building was nowhere near close to his liking. True to his nature, he immediately ordered a series of changes, especially to the main cupola. The sheer scale of his vision pushed contemporary building techniques to their limits, and the rushed construction didn’t exactly help the structure’s stability.
A City That Stays With You
Samarkand may be polished for tourism, but it doesn’t lose its magic. Between sipping tea at a guesthouse, wandering the Registan at night, or climbing the steps of Shah-i-Zinda, the city wraps you in centuries of history. It’s the kind of place where you can both tick off bucket-list sights and stumble into genuine, lived-in corners of Uzbek life.
A Football Surprise
One of my most unexpected highlights of the trip came in Samarkand: a Dinamo Samarkand vs. Pakhtakor Tashkent football game. The atmosphere was raw and electric, with local ultras, the OQ Armiya, chanting relentlessly. At some point, they handed me one of their supporter T-shirts, a gesture that felt both random and unforgettable. Sharing football culture with locals added a layer to my trip I hadn’t expected.
Bukhara and my melted running shoes
From Samarkand, I moved on to Bukhara, where the ancient city feels almost like an open-air museum. The madrassas, mosques, and trading domes are wonderfully preserved, giving a glimpse of the Silk Road era. But sightseeing came with a challenge: the 42°C heat. Walking through Bukhara became an exercise in endurance, moving slowly from one shaded courtyard to another, refilling water bottles, and collapsing on benches just to catch a breath. I even left my running shoes on the balcony for a quick air-dry, only to discover later that they had melted slightly in the sun. Despite the heat, the city’s charm is undeniable. The slower pace made me appreciate its timelessness: minarets glowing at sunset, tiled domes against a cloudless sky, and evenings when the air finally cooled enough to enjoy the atmosphere.
At the heart of Bukhara lies the Poi Kalyan Complex, with its towering minaret and majestic Kalyan Mosque. The intricate tilework and massive proportions remind you why this city was once a key Silk Road hub. A peaceful contrast to the city’s grandeur is the Lyabi-Hauz ensemble, a serene pool surrounded by historic madrassas and tea houses. Perfect for a break from the heat, it’s a place where locals and travelers alike slow down and soak in the atmosphere. Also worth to mention Chor Minor, a small but striking madrasa famous for its four miniature towers, each topped with a unique dome. Unlike the massive mosques and madrasas, its charm lies in its quirkiness and intimate scale. It was originally part of a larger complex that has mostly disappeared, but the four towers remain, standing as a whimsical reminder of Bukhara’s architectural creativity. It’s also a great spot for wandering around, taking photos, and imagining life in the city centuries ago.
Currency madness
One of the first things that hits you in Uzbekistan is the Uzbek som, and its absurd number of zeros. Paying for everyday items can feel like handling a small fortune. I remember withdrawing 200 euros worth Uzbek som from an ATM, it came out in a towering stack of bills that could barely fit in my wallet. A bottle of water? 15,000 som. A plate of juicy shashlik with bread? 70,000 som. Even a short taxi ride across town: 50,000 som. Counting the money became a little game of its own, sometimes I had to double-check I wasn’t accidentally tipping myself. Please note, the country is super cheap, 1 euro equals approx. 15000 uzbek som.
My conclusion
Uzbekistan is a country of contrasts, surprises, and timeless charm. From the post soviet vibes and the modern luxury of Tashkent, and the city’s stunning metro stations to the historical splendor of Samarkand and Bukhara, the journey feels like walking through a living museum. The cities are touristy in spots, yet every corner reveals layers of history, from the turquoise domes of the Registan to the intimate towers of Chor Minor. Travel here comes with quirks that make the trip memorable: handling stacks of Uzbek som, enduring 42°C heat in Bukhara, or learning that booking trains in advance is a must. Yet these challenges are part of the adventure, and they’re balanced by the warmth and hospitality of the people. Guesthouses, market vendors, and even football ultras make you feel genuinely welcome.
Food is another highlight: somsa, shashlik, and freshly baked bread fuel the sightseeing, while markets and cafés bring you closer to everyday life. Add a dash of adventure, a sweaty old train ride, football chants, or a luxury hotel stay for a much-needed recharge, and you get a travel experience that’s both rich and diverse.
In short, Uzbekistan is totally worth the trip. It’s a place where history, culture, and human kindness meet in ways that leave you richer in stories, experiences, and memories.
